The Old Capital (First Two Days)

 Kyoto was the capital city of Japan for over 1100 years. It was the city where the emperor lived. There is a long story behind the move of the capital to Edo, which toad is Tokyo. We are riding the Shinkansen, the bulletin train, yes it’s that fast and smooth. Very efficient service. The only minor drawback is the do not give you much time to debark the train at a midway station. Unfortunately, my phone ended up remaining on the train due to the flurry of activity getting off. We noticed immediately and were able to make arrangements to have it sent to our hotel in Hakuba.

Wednesday Morning

Meanwhile, back at Kyoto, we are experiencing the old capital. It is quite different from Tokyo, it seems more urban somehow. We have decided, as usual, to pick a few things to see each day and not try to see everything. There are hundreds of temples and shrines all over the cities and it would be too much to try to see even a few of them, even if you understood which deities where enshrined at any specific location. 

We will be going to the Golden Temple, the Bamboo Grove, the Geisha district and a general walk around the winding streets of the old city. We discovered a show not too far away that has some traditional Japanese dance, music and entertainment. We think this is a good start. It is hard to explain all that went on, a tea ceremony, a Koto recital, two interpretive dances and  a comedy show. 

In the morning we decide to just wander around near the area that our first walk will be. It’s quaint and old, then BAM, the Nishiki Market. It’s one of the places to see in Kyoto. Jane knew about it but we were not specifically looking for it. It’s pretty cool, lots of stuff here, bars, restaurants, shops, markets, the whole deal, tourist and local alike.

Mmmmmmmmmmm octopus!

Our Guru Walk guide the first day, Makoto, was very good. He is Japanese but raised in China. He explained a lot about the Geisha district and the life of a Geisha or as they are referred to in Kyoto, Geiko. It seemed to be a life of service and very demanding. The oldest one in Kyoto is over 80!

We visited a small shrine dedicated to a white snake that is said to confer mastery of art and dance, a necessity for a good Geiko. Then the Yasaka Shrine and Maruyama Park, the oldest in Kyoto. They are all very beautiful and quiet places. We visit the temple that is the birthplace of one of the Buddhist sects in Japan then the beautiful Chisen Gardens.

After the walk it’s time to wander aimlessly again.

Another Day!

It’s Thursday and we are off to another walk. Today the Golden Temple. The transit system here is excellent and cheap 230 ¥ per ride. A day pass is 1100 ¥, 5 rides to make it pay. Jane has her Suica pass so no need for a day pass. The start of the tour is a little rocky, guide left without us. We did catch up though and got what he had to offer. He was not as good as some we have had. 

The temple was a vacation house for one of the shogun. He became shogun stage 10, retired at age 35 and died at age 47. 

From here we are interested in the Bamboo Grove, it doesn’t seem far but it’s 30 minutes by bus. Worth the trip. You see this kind of thing in movies but seeing it up close is a little startling. They are tall and no thicker than my arm.

An interesting area no doubt. Off to home and a nice little dinner at a nearby fish restaurant. Small (we walked by the door and tried to break into the apartment building that houses it). A mom and pop shop, literally! The food was exceptional, fresh, hot and delicious. Nothing over the top but certainly worthwhile.